infer say hi!!: May 2012

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

How Alimony is Calculated within the Breakup

How alimony is measured is dependent upon your geographical area and are generally helping your divorces.

Some declares, and in some cases some areas, have alimony guideline stock chart, similar to the your sons or kids guideline stock chart that may be found in most 50 declares as well as the Portion of Mexico. The stock chart decide a build up alimony based on components for example earnings from the functions and whether and in what ways numerous students are worried.

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In California, for example, there is not any condition alimony guideline chart nevertheless, Santa Clara, California has suggestions, and a lot of other California areas now utilize people stock chart. The tennis courts rely on them like a beginning, to have the ability to alterations in healthy instances using the divorce fight.

How alimony is measured within the divorce proceedings

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Beautiful hawaii - Methods for getting To, To Get Close to On, The Fundamental Area Of Beautiful hawaii

The Big Island of Hawaii's beauty is legendary and it has the most diverse landscape on earth-but it can be as challenging to explore as it is charming. From the icy heights of snow-covered volcanoes, to steamy jungles and tropical beaches, to flowing fields of lava, flower choked canyons and wide-open tropical grassland, its scenery is unsurpassed. By and large the quality of your trip to the Big Island will depend on how much of it you choose to see and how you set about discovering your own Big Island adventures. Below are some ideas on the options for getting to Hawaii and for getting around Hawaii, once you are here.
Another key to the quality of your time on the Big Island has to do with the spirit of aloha. The people you meet in Hawaii, by and large, tend to be more open and friendly-quick to help or befriend-than elsewhere. This is the tradition of "Aloha". When you meet local residents, whether to ask for directions and advice or to hire services or just in casual conversation, treat them with respect, humor and openness-return their spirit of aloha and you will find your journey, and yourself, deeply enriched for it.
In Hawaii, your smile is your passport.
Getting To Hawaii

The standing joke among residents of Hawaii when dealing with the time, inconvenience and hassle of traveling to the mainland is: "This used to be so much easier before the bridge blew down"! Of course, there never was a bridge spanning the roughly 2500 miles between the Big Island and mainland USA, but the humor tends to underline the commitment, planning and time it takes to travel to and from Hawaii.
Flying to Hawaii: Certainly the most common, quickest and least expensive (note I didn't say "inexpensive") way to get to Hawaii is to fly. Many major US and international carriers fly to Honolulu on Oahu and and a host of local and international carriers offer flights from there to all the other Hawaiian Islands, including the Big Island. Kona's airport is the only one on the Big Island that has direct flight connections to the US Mainland, Canada, Japan and Australia. Despite styling itself as "Hilo International Airport", flights to and from Hilo ONLY connect to other Hawaiian islands.
Although both airports have similar facilities and services, including onsite rental car agencies and access to public transportation, shuttles and taxis, it makes a big difference to the traveller where they land. By far the vast majority of visitors to the Big Island stay in either Kona or the Kohala Resorts which are all on the west side of the island and are between 20 to 45 minutes from the Kona airport. If you are staying in Hilo, it's fine to fly in there; however, Hilo doesn't have the resort facilities, fine beaches and great weather of the Kona side and few tourists opt to stay there anymore. Many people booked into resorts on the west side mistakenly take flights into Hilo, due to the misleading airport name, unaware (or even misinformed by ignorant but well-meaning travel agents) that they now, at the end of an exhausting day of travel and in the fading twilight of the early tropical sunset, face a drive of almost 3 hours, across high mountains and on narrow, winding, unfamiliar roads to get to their resort. They just better hope it doesn't start raining, too.
So-know where you are staying, fly into the appropriate airport.
Whether you are flying directly into Kona or flying to Honolulu and getting a connecting flight into Kona or Hilo, you want to be sure to reserve a seat so that you see as much of the incredible scenery as you can. Since 90% of the flight is over open ocean (which just isn't as riveting as one might expect) you want to wring the most enjoyment out of those portions of your flight which do feature scenery. If you are first stopping in Honolulu, sitting on the port (left) side of the aircraft for this leg of your trip affords the best views as the plane screams in past Koko Head and over the top of Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach, turns around directly over Pearl Harbor and settles in to land at Honolulu International Airport. Sitting on the starboard side is not as spectacular, however, it offers views of Moloka'i and Maui islands, as well as views of Pearl Harbor, the Wai'anae and Ko'olau Mountains of O'ahu and downtown Honolulu just before landing.
Flying into Hilo from O'ahu, one also wants to sit on the port side of the aircraft. The flight path crosses over the islands of Moloka'i and Maui, skims along the eastern margin of Hawaii Island presenting a rich, fascinating panoply of soaring sea cliffs, jungle canyons and volcanic mountains, jaw-dropping waterfalls and crashing surf along the coast. Flying into Kona either directly or from Honolulu is no less wonderfully scenic than flying into Hilo, but one wants to be on the starboard side. This offers the traveller great views of the islands of Maui, Molokini, Lana'i and Kaho'olawe, as well as incredible views of the Big Island, Kohala Mountain, Mauna Kea, Hualalai and, on clear days, Mauna Loa as the jet cruises in over the Kohala Coast, making land right over Makalwena Beach and on to Kona International Airport at Keahole.
Cruise Ships and Cargo Ships: There are several cruise ship lines which ply the waters of the Hawaiian Archipelago, however of the ones that service the Big Island, most require passengers to book for an entire cruise, meaning that although you may make one or two stops on Hawaii, you will only remain in port for a day, overnight at most, before sailing on. Generally, you cannot arrive on one ship, disembark for a stay, and catch another ship out.
Of increasing popularity, however, is cruising to Hawaii on cargo ships-cheaper than a cruise line and with a completely open and adjustable itinerary, this is a great alternative to flying. It is both more expensive and more time consuming (average sailing is 3 days from Los Angeles to Honolulu, and times are variable for getting from there to the Big Island) than flying, but it is restful, peaceful and unique. Cargo ships offer spacious passenger cabins and, while not the floating feed-lots that cruise ships tend to resemble, the food on cargo ships is wonderful and plentiful. Perhaps the biggest drawback of riding cargo ships to the Big Island is that on the east side they dock in, let us say, the less desirable part of Hilo; on the west they dock at Kawaihae, halfway between Kailua Kona and the resorts of the Kohala coast-in other words, out in the middle of nowhere. Both land many miles from resorts and car rental agencies. However, both docking facilities are serviced by taxis and public transportation; if you plan ahead, it should present no problem.
Getting Around Hawaii

Shuttles/Taxis/Limos/Tours: Taxis, of course, service both Big Island airports, the metropolitan regions and all the resorts. The taxis, while not cheap, are not as usurious as one might fear and the drivers generally are knowledgeable, friendly, HONEST and genuinely nice-it's that whole aloha thing. Taxi drivers are happy to answer your questions, even the silly ones you are kind of shy to ask; they will freely give advice about what to do and see and where to eat and generally try to be as helpful as possible. However, many speak in pidgin English that can be nearly impenetrable to the newcomers' ear. Don't be shy about respectfully asking him to repeat himself, and again if necessary-he hears that on nearly every fare he carries. Ask him to write down place names, restaurant names and such-many Hawaiian words do not look at all like they way he's saying them and you'll want to be able to read the words on maps and signs, or be able to ask another person, later.
Both Kona and Hilo airports are serviced by point-to-point shuttles and limos, whose prices are actually quite reasonable and certainly less expensive than the taxis. The drawback here is that there will be many people aboard going to many diverse destinations-so it takes a bit longer than a taxi.
Many of the larger resorts offer a free limo service to and from the airport and some will even arrange to have your rental car waiting for you on-property when you arrive from the airport...check when you make reservations. If available, this is the least personable, but quickest, easiest and least expensive way to get to your lodgings.
Some boutique tours offered by Hostels and the smaller tour companies will also pick you up at the airport at the beginning of their tours, if your arrival time is convenient to the tour schedule; thus, the cost of getting to your resort is absorbed into the cost of the tour. This option is worth looking into if you are not planning to rent a car during your stay.
Tipping tour, taxi, limo and shuttle drivers is not only encouraged, it's their main source of revenue. Remember to return the aloha they showed you.
Rental Cars and Driving Tips: Although some people opt to not rent cars during their stay, relying on tours and public transportation to get around, you should bear in mind that there is a reason they call it "The Big Island". Distances between attractions can be long, public transportation schedules are not always convenient and, face it, it's just a lot freer, easier and more independent to have your own wheels. Be sure to thoroughly research the online booking agencies before you arrive-ofttimes great deals bundling airfare, room and car rental can be found, especially in the slack seasons.
There are two types of car rental agencies on the Big Island. The major, international car rental agencies are available on property at both airports, giving the visitor a wide selection of corporate deals and specials-particularly flight-room-car combo deals--as well as a diverse palate of available cars. The other option, frequently much less expensive particularly for long term rentals, are the off-property rental agencies. These folks won't generally pick you up at the airport so you must make your way to their in-town offices, but the selection of vehicles, and rates, are generally wider ranged.
If you are under 21, the rental companies won't rent to you. If you are between 21 and 24, they may add a surcharge to the rental that can be as much as twenty-five dollars a day on top of the regular daily fee.
The first question the traveller must answer for themselves is what kind of vehicle they will want while on the Big Island. Some rental agencies specialize in luxury and exotic cars--Mercedes, Lamborghini, Rolls Royce and such. Others offer Volkswagen Campers and RVs. Many people arrive and decide they want to flash around the island in a Mustang or Camaro convertible-which are great and fun, but they offer no security for your personal items and they severely limit the kinds of roads you can drive on, in addition to almost guaranteeing sun and wind burn. If you are coming to explore the island, you should consider going to the extra expense of renting a four-wheel drive vehicle-either a jeep or an enclosed SUV. Much of the mountain country and many of the more interesting beaches and canyons require four wheel drive. I suggest an enclosed SUV so you do not have to shout to be heard, as you do in a jeep, and have some more protection from the elements and from thieves.
Briefly mentioned above, RVs and Volkswagen Campers are excellent ways to see the island and obviate the need for an expensive hotel. However, RVs are not common on Hawaii and there are no RV parks as such; outside of the towns of Hilo and Kona there is nowhere to drain the waste tanks, so you have to be sure to use public facilities as much as possible. But you can park and camp free virtually anywhere, although most campgrounds will charge a camping fee for an RV, even if you are camping in the parking lot.
Motorcycles and scooters can be rented in both Kona and Hilo and are a fun way to see the island, until it rains. Which happens. It is also difficult to travel with any amount of luggage on a motorcycle. You will notice a burgeoning fraction of the local population zipping about town on scooters (locally, and incorrectly, referred to as "mopeds"). For bikes with engine sizes smaller than 50cc, no motorcycle license and no insurance are necessary. The "moped" class vehicle has the same license and road regulations as a bicycle, so it is not surprising to see them zip along the the roadside, passing cars stuck in traffic, or pop up and run down the sidewalk. If you rent a moped in Hawaii, please don't drive them the way the locals do; it just isn't safe. I use a moped almost exclusively to get around Kailua Town where I live-do not ride your scooter the way you see me ride mine.
The cost of gas in Hawaii is even worse than you've been led to believe, so when selecting a rental car, bear this in mind. Costco in Kona has the absolute cheapest gas on the island (and it's handy, near the airport); the gas station off the Akoni Pule Highway in Kohala near mile marker 76 has the cheapest gas in Kohala and the Chevron Station at the Airport turn-off in Hilo has the cheapest gas in East Hawaii. Remember that the Big Island is largely rural-gas stations, particularly in the far north and on the south side of the Island, may not keep regular hours or even stick with their posted schedule-especially if the surf is up or the fishing is good. In general, outside of the urban areas of Kona and Hilo, gas is hard to find after about 6 in the evening. I personally don't ever let my gas tank get more than half empty, ever, just for this very reason. Certainly, you should never let it get more than half empty when on the south side of the Island; you should make a point to fill up before late afternoon when you have the chance, definitely before you go into Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (you'll stay longer and use more gas than you planned because, trust me, it's the coolest place, ever) and before crossing the Saddle Road.
Driving times between attractions on the Big Island are longer than you might expect, given the actual mileage between points of interest. This is in part because much of the "highway" system is composed of winding, narrow, two-lane blacktop with a speed limit of 35 miles an hour. Another reason drives take longer than expected is because you are going to want to pull over and look, stop and explore, take your time and enjoy. As the bumper sticker says: "Slow down, Brah-dis ain't da mainland!" On this note, many local residents will pass on hills and blind corners, even into oncoming traffic; they know the road, you don't-don't follow their lead. Trying to drive like the locals drive is like jumping into the ocean and trying to surf like they surf-it just isn't a really bright idea. Local custom is to eschew use of turn signals and horn; this is another custom you shouldn't emulate.
The police on the Big Island are well-trained, serious professionals. However, most cruise around in their personal cars (with a blue light on top) and can be very hard to spot (a Ford Mustang or Toyota Rav4 with a light bar? It happens...). They are particularly serious about drunk drivers, speed limits and child restraints/seal belts. Aloha, respect and honesty go a long way toward making any interactions with the Hawaii County Police more pleasant. This isn't Louisiana or some Third World banana republic-do not even think of offering a bribe if you are stopped by a Hawaii County Police Officer. On the topic of police, it is local custom to flash your brights at on-coming traffic if there is a cop behind you. Participate in this at your own discretion, but this is the reason all those people are flashing at you.
There are feral goats and sheep (feral donkeys along the highway in Kohala!), wild pigs, feral cats and dogs that present driving hazards, especially at night. Fruit such as mango, avocado and guava frequently fall, en masse, into the road and produce a slimy hazard, particularly to motorcycles. In town, watch for cyclists, pedestrians and skateboarders (check out those guys skateboarding to the beach with their surfboards under their arms!). Kailua Kona is the proud home to the Iron Man World Championship Triathlon and many runners and cyclists fully utilize, and rigorously defend, their rights of way; smile, wave and yield, OK? You came to have fun: relax. The Big Island is also Big Sky country...driving east into the sunrise or west into the sunset is painful and hazardous; try to plan your day to avoid this.
Do not leave valuables in your car, not even the trunk. Ever. The locals are friendly, but but some are frisky and high value items will evaporate from your car with alarming alacrity. Consider any spot frequented by visitors to be at risk for theft, even if you only are going a hundred feet from your car.
Many roads, intersections and attractions are poorly marked and what signs exist are in Hawaiian, which is hard to read, harder to remember exactly the name of the place you are searching for. When you ask directions, have the person write down the name of the place. Many residents are in the habit of giving directions in terms of landmarks that mean nothing to you ("Remember where Uncle Kealea had the fruit stand 20 years ago? You want to go just across Aunty Tutu's pig farm from there to where the coconut grove used to be...") so have them show you on a map. Be sure they start by pointing out where you are, right now. Respect, humor and aloha will help get you where you are going.
Along these lines, many tourists bring their GPS from home to help navigate-be sure to download the maps for Hawaii before you come; some brands of GPS do not offer Hawaii coverage. A few of the rental car agencies have GPS units for rent at reasonable prices. The best solution, however, are the folks at Tour Guide Hawaii (808.557.0051; http://www.tourguidehawaii.com) who offer a hand-held computer with an onboard GPS at very reasonable rental rates. They have stuffed into this device over six hundred points of interest (did you hear that? 600!) of recreational, cultural and historical importance. They have produced a short audio/video presentation for each site, telling you all about it, the history and culture, what to bring, what to do while there; they even have the public restrooms listed! These presentations play as you approach the points of interest, or can be searched for at any time or location. Thus, the device can be used to preview all the sites around the island in the comfort of your hotel room, pre-plan trips or to get information and turn by turn navigation on the road. Combining cutting-edge technology and old-fashioned story-telling, the unbelievably easy to use, fabulously informative and terrifically fun Tour Guide Self-Guided GPS Tours are an amazing bargain and a great way to see Hawaii. They are now offering a pared-down version (45 of the top sites-iAND the restrooms!) that is downloadable to iPhone and iPod.
Commercial Tours: Whether or not you rent a car, commercial tours offer a great way to get oriented to the island and hear a bit about the history and about the culture of our home. Tours come in all sizes and description, from the taxi driver who makes it up on the fly as he takes you to dinner, to personalized taxi tours lasting a half to a full day, to specialized van tours and large, full day, round the island tours in full-size motor coaches. There are bus tours to the summit of Mauna Kea, tours through the coffee country of Kona, tours to see the volcano, historical tours-tours of all lengths and covering just about anything and everything you want to see. Some tours include meals-one even takes you to a real, working ranch for a barbecue! Then there are the highly specialized tours: fixed wing and helicopter tours of the island, whale and dolphin watching tours, snorkel tours, sunset cruise tours, organized bicycle tours, powered hang-glider tours, tours of Kailua Bay in a submarine and even boat tours to see the lava flowing into the ocean. Although they can be fairly spendy, most are fully worth the price. Be sure to shop around for the right tour at the right price to suit your interests.
Bicycle Rental: There are several places where you can rent bikes on the Big Island-and it's very pleasant to spend the day pedaling through Hilo and Kailua Kona. However, problems of weather (hot sun, torrential downpour!), the long distances between points of interest and the ever-present, enormous volcanoes (think: "HILLS!") preclude this as a major method of exploration, except for the most avid bike tourer.
Public Transportation: The Hawaii County-run Hele-on Bus travels most of the Island, and makes pretty good time-the good news here is that riding the bus is free...the bad news is that it is scheduled to get workers between the large resorts in Kona and Kohala and the small towns all across the island where they live. As such, the bus schedule may not be convenient for the visitor nor conducive to exploration. However, it's very handy if you just want to go somewhere and spend the day there. Be sure you understand the bus schedule, however, as many places only are serviced twice a day by bus (one in-bound and one out-bound trip per day) and if you miss your return ride and have to find an alternate way back to your hotel, you will quickly learn why they call this "The Big Island"!
Walking and Hitch-hiking: Two words here: BIG ISLAND. It is possible to hike across the Big Island (I've done it both west-to-east and south-to-north; heck, in 2008 a wheel chair athlete rolled his wheel chair from sea-level in Hilo 37 miles and 13,800 feet in elevation up to the summit of Mauna Kea-did you catch the part about "wheel chair athlete"?), but the long distances, rural nature (it's an impracticably long way between places to get food, water and to camp) and intense sun make this an epic adventure, not a restful sight-seeing vacation. Both Hilo and Kailua Town are comfortable and safe to walk around, but getting to beaches, waterfalls and other points of interest is difficult on foot.
Until very recently hitch-hiking was a common and respectable way to get around the island-if you were a local, everybody either knew you, or your aunty; if you were a visitor, your uniqueness made you interesting and so it was very safe, as well. Although probably just as safe today, with the explosion of mainlanders moving to our island (who may be reluctant to offer rides), I notice a sharp decline in the number of hitch-hikers on the roads now. Hitch-hiking is legal from the roadside, as long as you are not in the road, presenting a hazard to yourself or an impediment to traffic. If you hitch-hike use your judgement, be home before sundown and refuse to ride with drunks or folks of questionable character or cleanliness. Do not ride in the backs of pick-up trucks.
So-armed with this information, you are now better prepared to evaluate your options for exploring the unique and varied landscapes, experiences and delights of Hawaii-your adventures are limited only by your imagination. Remember that attitude in Hawaii is important to the quality of your vacation-the spirit of Aloha is pervasive. When angry, lonely, confused, frustrated, tired or bored, recall what I said: "In Hawaii, your smile is your passport"

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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Vehicle Cleaning Objects

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Thursday, May 10, 2012

Outboard Serp Repair

Routine Outboard Maintenance
After your engine has been properly run in, you'll need to establish a maintenance routine that begins with systematic checks every time you use your boat. These checks won't take long, but could spell the difference between life and death for your engine.
Daily Checks and Outboard Maintenance
Daily checks should include a quick look at just a few key items. First, make sure that your oil tank (if you have one) is topped up. If you have a four-stroke engine, be sure to check the crankcase-oil level and top up if needed. Check your owner's manual to determine if your dipstick should be screwed in, or left unthreaded when you check the oil level. Failure to do so could give you a false reading, and lead to overfilling or underfilling your engine's crankcase, which can cause problems.
Check that you have adequate fuel for your intended trip, and that the fuel-tank vent is open.

With the engine tilted up, check for excess oil buildup near your propeller...it could mean that a seal in your lower gearcase has deteriorated. (Note: Some oil film buildup is normal in many cases; look for changes in the amount of buildup. If it appears to be increasing, check the oil level in the lower unit as discussed in the owner's manual) If the seal has failed, take the engine to an engine repair shop immediately to avoid expensive gear-unit damage.
Check for fishing line wrapped around the propeller hub area. If you ignore it, the line can wrap tightly around the propshaft and cause the aforementioned gearcase seal failure.
If your engine is not through-bolted to the transom of your boat, make sure the screw clamps are tight and secure. Many engines have landed on the bottom of the sea through neglect of this simple check.
Sniff around for any sign of a fuel leak, and if you find one, fix it.
Once the engine is running, make sure to check the "telltale," or "tracer," spray, or exhaust discharge, to be certain the water pump is working.
If all these items are in order, you're ready to go. There's just one more thing:
If you tow your boat on a trailer, and run it in salt water, flush the cooling system daily with fresh water.
Monthly Checks and Outboard Maintenance
On a monthly basis, besides the routine daily checks, it's a good idea to remove the engine cover and look for any corrosion build-up near cylinder heads and thermostat housings that could indicate leaky gaskets. Also, look for corrosion at wire terminal connections... clean and tighten them as required and then use one of the proprietary anti-corrosion sprays available at your dealership on all exposed electrical connections and unpainted metal parts of your outboard.

Make sure that throttle and gear-shift controls operate smoothly. Lubricate them as needed. Be aware that you should never shift gears unless your engine is running, so make sure the boat is securely made fast to the dock before checking shift controls for smooth operation.
Next, run the engine with the cover off and check that none of the bolt-on components (fuel pumps, voltage regulators, coils, and the like) have come loose from their mounts. Make sure all wires and cables are securely led and clipped through harness mounts. Next, if your engine is equipped with an engine mounted fuel strainer, check to see if any water has collected in it. It will be easy to see, as the water will separate from the fuel, drop to the bottom of the strainer, and be relatively clear in color compared to the fuel/oil mix above it. If you can see water, remove the strainer housing and drain out the water. Clean the screen element, reinstall, making sure the O-ring is in place before threading the housing back in, and re-check this assembly for fuel leaks after replacing the strainer housing. Simply pump your fuel primer bulb until the filter/strainer fills with fuel, and look for leaking fuel.
Check for corrosion at thermostat housing at top of cylinder head or engine block
Check for corrosion at all wiring connections
Next, you should check the condition of any sacrificial zinc anodes attached to your engine. Check for zincs at the lower portion of the mounting bracket on larger engines. There may be a zinc trim tab behind the propeller, or a small zinc screwed onto the antiventilation plate. Replace any zincs that are more than half eroded. In some areas they can dissolve quite rapidly, and if the zincs are completely gone, the only thing left to dissolve is your engine housing.

Lastly, check your engine's battery, and top up the cells as needed.
Seasonal Checks and Outboard Maintenance
First let's define the word "seasonal." The way I apply it here, it actually means every three months, or every full boating season, whichever comes first. In other words, if you can boat all the year round, or for more than three months anyway, do these checks and maintenance procedures at least once every three months, or about every 50 to 75 hours of operation.
But if you live in a region where your boat use is restricted to less than three months, or 75 hours, consider these "seasonal" checks to be annual checks.
Three-Month (or Seasonal) Service Checks
Seasonal check-ups are far more comprehensive, and certain operations may require the expertise of your local dealer, but you'll certainly be able to do all of the work listed here except in a few cases.
Grease Points... All grease points on your engine should be filled with fresh grease as recommended by your manufacturer for the specific engine location. Keep pumping in grease until all the old grease-and any water-is forced out. It's a messy business, so wipe the old stuff away with a rag as it emerges around the lube point.
Propeller Inspection... First, be certain your ignition system is disabled by disconnecting the spark plug wires at the plugs. Then remove the propeller to inspect the shaft for any fishing line wrapped around it. If you find any, cut it all off.
Inspect the propeller for nicks, burrs, and any unwanted bends in the propeller blades. If the nicks are minor, you can clean them up with a file.
Inspect the propeller hub for any deterioration of the vulcanized rubber and its attachment to the hub spline. Any damage found here could spell trouble next season. If this hub is damaged, you'll need either to have the prop rehubbed or a new prop. If you're in doubt, have your dealer make the final call. You certainly don't want to replace it if you don't have to.
If all looks okay here, wipe down the propeller shaft to remove the old grease, and apply a thin coat of an approved waterproof grease to the shaft. Don't reinstall the propeller just yet, as you're going to run the engine to flush the cooling system, and you should never run an engine out of the water with the propeller on because of the obvious danger from the whirring blades.
When you do reinstall the propeller however, remember to replace the cotter pin for the prop nut if your engine is equipped with one. If your engine uses a Nylock self-locking prop nut, it should be replaced, as these lock effectively only once.
Gearcase-Oil Change... The next step in the seasonal service process is to change the gearcase oil. On most outboards, the gearcase will have two screw plugs evident in the side of the gear housing. Some engines, however, will have the gear unit's drain and fill screws located on the hub just forward of the propeller, in which case they can only be reached with the propeller removed.
To drain the fluid from your unit, wipe the skeg clean at the very bottom of the engine and attach a piece of masking tape to the skeg.
Get a clean container that's large enough to hold all the oil in your gearcase and place it under the tape. Remove the lower drain plug. Nothing much will come out until you slowly unscrew the upper check plug. The oil will then leak down the side of the gear housing, down the side of the skeg, and flow straight down the edge of the tape into your drain pan.
Carefully inspect the oil for excessive metal filings or discoloration. If the oil appears milky, or if you noticed a large amount of water coming out of the drain before the oil, then water has somehow migrated into the gearcase, indicating a bad seal.
Clean off the magnetic pickup found on many lower drain plugs and get ready to refill the lower unit with the correct gear oil.
A note of caution here: Don't let anyone talk you into using straight gear oil as supplied by auto parts stores. Although this oil may have the same distinctive rotten egg odour as the fluid you have just removed from your outboard engine, it may not be the same stuff. Typically, the special outboard engine gear oils have a water-dispersant additive in them that's not found in the automotive grades. Also, be aware that not all outboards use gear oil in their gearcases. Some use four-stroke engine oil, and others use a fluid quite similar to automotive automatic transmission oil. Be sure to check the specifications for your engine. It's best to go to your dealer to purchase a container of the correct oil and one of the special fill pumps.
These pumps are quite inexpensive and fit not only the oil container, but screw directly into the threaded lower unit drainplug hole on your engine, minimizing mess. This is an important point, because you're going to fill the gearcase from the bottom up. Once you are set-up , simply work the pump until you just begin to see oil seeping from the top check-plug hole. Then reinstall the check plug and snug up the screw.
Next, get the drain/fill plug ready to install, wipe down the magnetic pickup, and be sure the sealing Oring or gasket is either in place on the screw plug or in the gear housing. Unscrew the pump tool and quickly insert the drain/fill plug. Tighten it fully. Wipe off any excess oil from the gearcase and watch for leaks. Your oil change is complete.
Cooling System... The next step in the seasonal service is to thoroughly flush your cooling system with fresh water. A precaution here is to make certain that the flush adapter stays in place while you are flushing the engine. If the adapter slides down on the lower unit to a point below the water inlet, you could burn out the engine's water pump-or the engine itself-if it's left unattended for even a brief time.
As part of this cooling system service, it's also a good idea to remove and clean your engine's thermostat, if it has one. The internal cavity into which the thermostat and bypass valve fits is a trap for sand, salt, and general debris that gets past the system pickup strainer. With the thermostat removed, clean out any muck you find there and, with the engine running, run fresh water up from the flushing adapter through the engine to this point. You'll now know for certain that the internal water flow is unrestricted, because water will leak out at this point. Just run the engine long enough to determine that a good solid flow of water is pouring out.
After the thermostat has been cleaned, reinstall it, using new gaskets, and run the engine again to be sure the thermostat cover is not leaking. If your engine has seemed to be running too hot lately, but your inspection has now revealed that water is getting to this point in adequate amounts, the operation of the thermostat could be the problem.
Impeller Replacement. In addition to flushing the cooling system and checking the thermostat, you may also regard the replacement of your water-pump impeller as routine maintenance. To tell the truth, manufacturer's recommendations vary on this score, some suggesting that you renew the impeller every year, and others that you replace it only as needed. If you regularly venture far offshore, where failure of the water pump could be a serious problem, replace that impeller yearly.
On the other hand, if you use your motor only occasionally throughout the season, or on a tender, for non-risky trips from ship to shore, I'd advise you to replace the impeller every other year.

Cylinder Compression... Now that you've run your engine for a bit to flush your cooling system, and have warmed it up, it's a good idea to perform the annual compression test. Remember, compression is one of your engine's basic needs and a compression check can often catch impending problems before they become major.
For example, piston rings that are just beginning to gum up will cause low compression before they fail completely. Usually, you can cure this problem by running a manufacturer-approved decarbonizing fluid such as OMC or Mercury "Engine Tuner" through the engine. If you don't catch this problem in time, the only solution is to take the engine apart. It's simple to use these engine tuners-the instructions are right there on the product label.
What's often not so easy is finding out what normal compression is for your engine. Often the specs are not given in the engine owner's manual or even in the workshop service manual. So it's a good idea to check the compression when the engine is fairly new and in good running order. Write down the compression figures for each cylinder in your manual for future reference.
As a matter of interest, the actual pressure is not that important-it's the variation from the norm that you should be concerned with. In the case of a multicylinder engine, start worrying if any one cylinder varies from the others by 15 pounds per square inch (psi) or more. If yours is a single-cylinder engine, a drop of 15 psi from the norm you established when it was new is cause for concern. The steps for performing a compression test are really quite simple, but you must follow them exactly for your own safety and the accuracy of the readings. So be warned-don't skip any of these steps:
1. First, disable the ignition system by unplugging the gang plug going into your ignition module. If your engine has an emergency shutoff switch, simply remove the lanyard clip to disable the ignition. If neither of these solutions works on your engine, take a wire jumper lead and connect one end to a good engine ground, and the other end to the metal connector inside the spark plug boot. You'll have to use one jumper for each plug wire. Remember, simply disconnecting all the plug wires may be a dangerous move. Once you remove all your spark plugs and begin cranking over your engine, an explosive fuel/oil mix will be spraying out of the plug holes. A plug wire could spark and ignite this mix outside of the combustion chamber if it isn't grounded to the engine. Also, this freewheeling type of spark could damage the ignition coils or modules.

2. Remove all the spark plugs, and be sure to keep them in order so you can return them to the cylinders they came from. Carefully inspect the business end of the plugs, looking for any inconsistency in coloration, and for any sign of water or rust near the tip.

3. Next, thread your compression gauge into the #1 spark-plug hole and "zero" the gauge.

4. Open the throttle as far as possible, to ensure that the cylinder gets an unrestricted supply of air. (Some engines allow only minimal opening if the gearshift is in neutral, to guard against over-revving.)

5. Crank over the engine an equal number of times for each cylinder you test, and be sure to re-zero the gauge for each cylinder. If you have

an electric start, count the seconds: "One thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, one thousand four" and so on, with the key or start button engaged. This will give you enough cranking time for a usable reading. If you have a pull start, pull the cord four to five times for each cylinder you are testing.

6. Record your readings from each cylinder for future reference. Use the 15 psi criterion already mentioned to determine if further action is required.
If compression readings are lower than normal for any cylinders, try a "wet" compression test, which will temporarily seal the piston rings, and determine if they are the cause of the low reading.
To perform this test, get a can of your favorite fogging oil and insert the red nozzle tube in the push button. Now carefully insert the other end of the tube into the spark plug hole and spray into the cylinder with a circular motion to distribute oil spray all around the perimeter of the piston. Spray for about four seconds.
Remove the nozzle and install your compression tester. Spin the engine over exactly the same number of times you did for the previous test and compare your gauge readings. If the compression rises noticeably, then your rings are beginning to stick.
If you've caught the problem early enough, decarbonizing with an "engine tuner" fluid, as described above, may cure it. If the dry compression was really low, and no change is evident during the wet test, it's too late. Your rings and/or piston are worn to the point where major engine disassembly will be required. So be brave, and consult your dealer.
If two adjacent cylinders on a multicylinder engine give a similarly low reading, or if there was evidence of water or rust on the spark plugs from these cylinders, then the problem is a faulty head gasket. This is usually a problem better left for a professional to deal with, but if you have enough engine experience, you may want to tackle it yourself.
Incidentally, beware of compression readings from an engine that has been in storage for an extended period. While it's sitting idle, the piston rings will "relax" and retract slightly, often giving an initially low and misleading reading. Always run an engine to operating temperature to ensure that the reading you get is accurate.
One last tip-if the spark plugs have been in the engine for the entire season, now's the time to replace them.
Fuel System... The next phase of the annual inspection is to thoroughly check your boat's entire fuel system for any signs of leaks, loose clamps, or cracked, frayed hoses and squeeze bulbs. Any rust patches on your fuel tanks should be sanded and touched up. Also, inspect the venting system for your fuel tank. It should be free to breathe. Any restriction can stop your engine.
An easy way to check for a fuel leak from the primer bulb to the engine is to squeeze the bulb until it gets firm, and hold pressure on it to be certain it remains firm while the engine's not running. If it doesn't stay firm, there's a leak in the system between the bulb and the engine, or in the engine itself at the carburetor or fuel pump.
You may have to remove some access panels on your boat to do a visual check of the whole fuel delivery system, but don't neglect this important task.
Automatic Oiler... Your next job is to check the automatic oil-blending system, if your engine is so equipped. Clean and inspect all lines and connections, replacing any cracked lines and tightening loose connections as required. It's a good idea to check with your dealer for specific recommendations for your engine. On some engines, oil' delivery pump diaphragms should be replaced as part of an annual service.
Steering... Your boat's steering system needs to be thoroughly inspected at least once a year, but don't hesitate to see what's amiss any time you feel unusual looseness or tightness in the steering wheel. Inspect steering cables for any signs of separation, cracks in the outer sheathing, or rust buildup near the cable ends.
Battery... Next, check and clean all battery-cable connections and battery tops. Smear a light coating of Vaseline or similar light grease over the tightened connection. If you're planning to put the boat in storage, remove the battery and trickle-charge it every month.
Two Final Adjustments. Last, you should have your dealer set your ignition timing, and adjust your carburetor(s). These are not procedures the part-time mechanic should attempt on an outboard engine. There are simply too many expensive tools required.

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